North India, Punjab, 19thcentury
A gold, open worked pendant, JUGNI or DHUK-DHUKI, depicting two peacocks, MAYIL, and below two smaller parrots, of which the bodies are kundan set with foiled, carved emeralds, rubies and sapphire, flanking a central kundan set, foiled emerald, carved in a flowering Lotus with an entourage of foliage, kundan set with foiled white sapphire. At the reverse the decor is repeated in minutely embossed CHITTRAI work. Suspended from the JUGNI is an emerald bead.
The delicate and detailed embossing technique, known as CHITRAI, is typical workmanship from Lahore, the old Punjab.
Flora and fauna are an inseparable aspect of Indian jewellery design; flowers, herb, fruits and vegetable seeds, buds are an endless inspiration, incorporated to propitiate deities. The beauty and heavy perfume of such flowers (jasmine) inspired much jewellery design, since earliest history, from North to South India.
Research report by Naturalis Biodiversity Centre available on request