North India, Gujarat, Kutch, 18th century
weight, pair: 100 g
A pair of gold ear ornaments, toti or karnphul (flower) with a gently convex-shaped front plate, kundan-set with an intricate design of a central diamond rosette surrounded by a radiating floral arrangement of irregular-sized polki or rose-cut diamonds and foiled cabochon emeralds. Surrounding the central medallion are foiled channel or talpain-set rubies, interspersed with four foiled table-cut diamonds, bordered by a row of pearls. The outer edges are decorated with a rim of gold beads. The reverse of each toti is plain gold and has a large plug at the back for the lobe. A screw with an attached back-plate keeps the ornament in place.
This type of ear ornament was originally worn only by men, nowadays they are worn by women as well and are also seen in silver, set with glass, rock crystal and other minerals on coloured foil.